Quick Answer: Should You Drill a Well?
Drilling a well gives you a private, mostly independent water supply — no monthly water bill, no reliance on municipal delivery, and usually a reliable, high-quality source for a well-maintained property.
The short version: A typical residential water well costs $5,000-$15,000 to drill, install, and equip, produces 5-30 gallons per minute (plenty for a home), and, with proper siting and construction, can last 30-50+ years. But you need permits, a licensed driller, and the geology under your property has to cooperate — groundwater isn’t guaranteed.
For a deep dive on pricing by depth and region, see our well drilling cost guide.
The 3 Main Types of Wells
Before you drill, you need to understand which type of well fits your site. There are three basic categories:
1. Dug / Bored Wells
- How they’re made: Excavated by hand or machine into shallow, unconfined aquifers
- Depth: Usually 10-30 feet
- Use: Historically common; now rare for new drinking-water wells
- Pros: Cheap, simple
- Cons: Shallow, prone to contamination and drying out; rarely permitted for new potable wells
2. Driven Wells
- How they’re made: A steel pipe with a screen is driven into the ground, sometimes to 30-50 feet
- Depth: Typically 30-50 feet
- Use: Older properties, sand/gravel aquifers
- Pros: Low cost
- Cons: Shallow, contamination risk, limited yield
3. Drilled Wells (Most Common Today)
- How they’re made: A drilling rig bores through rock/soil to reach a deep, confined aquifer
- Depth: Typically 100-500+ feet, sometimes much deeper
- Use: The standard for modern residential water wells
- Pros: Yield, water quality, longevity
- Cons: Higher cost, needs professional drilling
Bottom line: For a modern, reliable, code-compliant drinking-water well, you’ll almost certainly get a drilled well. Dug and driven wells are mostly historical or very site-specific solutions.
The Drilling Process Step-by-Step
Here’s what actually happens when you hire a well driller:
- Site evaluation & water search. A hydrogeologist or experienced driller assesses the geology, reviews neighboring well records, and picks the best drill site. (Geophysical siting can improve success odds but isn’t a guarantee.)
- Permits. You’ll need a groundwater/well permit from your state or county health department before drilling. Fees vary (see below).
- Drilling. Using truck- or trailer-mounted rigs, the driller bores the hole, usually with air rotary or cable-tool methods depending on geology. This can take a few hours to several days, depending on depth and rock hardness.
- Casing & screen. PVC or steel casing is installed to stabilize the borehole and prevent surface contamination. A well screen lets water in without letting in sediment.
- Gravel pack & sealant. A gravel pack around the screen aids water flow, and a bentonite/cement seal at the top prevents surface water from running down the well.
- Well development. The driller pumps out fine material until the water runs clear — the well “develops.”
- Water quality testing. Depending on your state, the well may need a bacteriological and chemical test after drilling. You should always test before drinking (we cover this in our water testing guide).
- Equipping (optional, often separate). This is where the submersible pump, pressure tank, and controls get installed. Some drillers include it; some contract it out.
Permits, Regulations, and Legal Considerations
Do you need a permit to drill a well? In virtually every US state and most Canadian provinces, yes — a groundwater/water-well permit is required before drilling. This is not optional.
What you’ll typically deal with:
- Well permit: Applied to the state or county health/environmental agency; $100-$500 depending on jurisdiction.
- Licensed driller requirement: Most states require drilling to be performed by a certified/licensed well driller who knows local depth and spacing rules.
- Setback requirements: Wells must usually be a minimum distance (often 50-100 feet) from septic systems, barns, fuel tanks, and sometimes property lines.
- Abandoned well regulations: If you’re replacing an old well, you may need to decommission it properly (which has its own cost).
- Water right / allocation: In some western states, groundwater rights are regulated separately; you may need to register your withdrawal. Check local law.
Note: DIY drilling is heavily restricted in most areas, both for safety and because a poorly constructed well can contaminate the aquifer. Drilling is really a job for licensed pros. See our well drilling cost page for DIY vs. professional comparison.
What Affects a Well’s Success
Water isn’t guaranteed just because you drill. Key factors:
- Aquifer presence & yield — the rock must hold and transmit water. Your driller estimates yield from surrounding wells.
- Depth to water — deeper typically means more drilling cost but often better quality/consistency.
- Rock type — sandstone, gravel, and fractured limestone often yield well; some igneous rock can be dry.
- Regional drought — aquifer levels fluctuate; a well that flows in wet years may weaken in drought.
A driller can’t always guarantee water. Ask about “water wells” guarantees—some contractors charge a dry-hole fee or per-foot rate where you pay regardless of success. Always clarify the dry-hole policy before signing.
Well Components (What Full “Equipping” Includes)
A well is more than just the hole. The typical residential installation includes:
| Component | Purpose | Typical Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Well casing | Stabilize borehole, block contamination | Part of drilling cost |
| Well screen | Let water in, block sediment | Part of drilling cost |
| Submersible pump | Push water from depth to surface | $300-$900 |
| Pressure tank | Maintain even water pressure | $200-$500 |
| Controls (pressure switch, control box) | Manage pump operation | $100-$300 |
| Piping & connections | Carry water into the home | $100-$500 |
| Water treatment (as needed) | Iron, hardness, etc. | $500-$3,000+ |
Important: Many drillers quote “per foot for drilling only,” with the pump, tank, and electrical as a separate line item. Always get a written scope covering both drilling and equipping so there are no surprises.
Choosing the Right Driller and Getting Quotes
The single biggest decision after the site is who drills your well. Here’s how to vet and compare:
- Licensing & insurance: confirm the driller holds a valid well-drilling license in your state/province and carries liability insurance. Ask to see both.
- References & local wells: a driller who knows your region’s aquifer is worth more than a slightly cheaper out-of-towner. Ask to tour a recently completed local well and talk to the owner.
- Written, itemized quote: get a detailed written quote separating drilling (per foot), casing, equipping (pump/tank/controls), and any mobilization fees. Vague quotes lead to surprise costs.
- Dry-hole policy in writing: clarify in writing whether you pay per foot if water isn’t found, and whether any “drill until water” or money-back terms exist. Never rely on verbal assurances.
- Compare 2-3 quotes: pricing and inclusions vary. Compare both total price and what’s actually covered, not just the per-foot number.
- Warranty & support: ask about the workmanship warranty and whether they service the well and pump after completion.
For realistic budgets by depth and region, see our well drilling cost guide.
Budgeting for Well Equipment
Remember that a “well” includes more than the hole. If your driller doesn’t provide equipping, plan for a submersible pump, pressure tank, pressure switch, and wiring — commonly $700-$1,700 combined. Browse well pumps and pressure tanks on Amazon to get a sense of current pricing before your contractor quotes.
Ongoing Maintenance and Lifespan
A well isn’t zero-maintenance:
- Annual water testing for bacteria and common contaminants
- Inspect the wellhead/cap for cracks or leaks (keep it sealed against insects and runoff)
- Service the pressure tank (check air charge periodically)
- Clean/replace well screen or rebuild pump as they age
- Watch for signs of problems: air sputtering from taps, sand in water, water pressure drops, or odd tastes/odors can signal pump, screen, or aquifer issues
With reasonable care, a properly constructed drilled well can last 30-50+ years, with the pump being the most replaceable part (often 8-15 years).
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to drill a well?
A complete drilled well (permits, drilling, casing, pump, pressure tank) typically costs $5,000-$15,000, but can run well above that for deep drilling or difficult geology. See our detailed cost breakdown for depth-by-depth figures.
Do I need a permit to drill a well?
Yes — in almost every jurisdiction, you need a groundwater/water-well permit before drilling, and the work must be done by a licensed driller. Permit fees run $100-$500.
How deep is the average well?
Residential drilled wells typically range 100-500 feet, but depth varies enormously by region and geology. Shallow wells (30-60 ft) exist in sandy areas; mountain and bedrock wells can exceed 500 ft.
How long does it take to drill a well?
A typical residential well takes a few hours to a few days depending on depth and rock hardness. Equipping (pump, tank, wiring) adds another day or two.
Can I drink the water right away?
Not necessarily. The water should be tested for bacteria and chemical contaminants after drilling and before regular consumption. See our water testing guide.
How long does a well last?
A properly constructed and maintained drilled well can last 30-50+ years. The submersible pump typically needs replacing every 8-15 years.
Can I drill a well myself to save money?
It’s risky and heavily regulated. DIY drilling is restricted or illegal in much of the US, and a bungled well can contaminate groundwater and cost far more to fix. Professional drilling is strongly recommended (and usually required).
What if the driller doesn’t find water?
Many drillers charge a dry-hole fee or per-foot regardless of outcome. Always clarify whether you’re paying per-foot, whether there’s a “finding water” guarantee, and the dry-hole policy in writing before drilling.
Final Verdict
A properly drilled well is one of the most reliable, low-operating-cost water sources you can have — and it’s the backbone of most off-grid water systems. But it requires permits, licensed pros, and a bit of luck with the geology. Budget $5,000-$15,000, get everything in writing, test your water, and maintain the wellhead over the years.
For the granular cost details by depth, region, and DIY-vs-pro, jump to our well drilling cost guide.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
